Guilty, humble apologies.

[Wickedvox]

Like a lover who has strayed, I return to you all with humble apologies. Turns out the real world is a b*tch for a newly licensed RN. Getting settled into a new job can take the wind out of your sails. Also a side foray into the fifties caught my wanderlust. Also it's taken me this long to recover my Renaissance desire after working for MiRF this year...I'll never do *that* again.

I come to you now oh wisest and greatest of all sewers *wipes brown smear off nose* with a conundrum. I'm drafting the TT men's jerkin and I'm wondering how to calculate box pleat yardage. I have no theories. I'm to tired to ponder it. Grammercy.

[Orphena]

Offers hugs and forgiveness! We love you whenever you decide to be here!

Box pleating has always been less math and more feel, for me. The nice thing about pleats is that you can always cheat a few to make them fit....but use an many pis as you can, and know you are not likely to get it right the first time! Thickness and fold ability of the fabric you use does play into it!

[gem]

WHERE IN THE HECK HAVE YOU BEEN, MISSY?! 

This might help: http://uk.answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20101026153244AAPK0ED They give the formula as 3:1 (a 1" box pleat requires 3" of fabric), which is my recollection as well... but then offer the edifying advice that you don't always need a full return!

It's hard to work backward, isn't it?  What I usually do is start with a muslin of whatever I'm pleating to (the "bodice" part of the jerkin here), and then take a goodly length of fabric (at least 3x the width of the jerkin bottom plus maybe another yard?) and do it by hand. Start in the center back and pleat until you get to the edges. Monkey with it until you actually stop with a full pleat + hem allowance. (This step will take a while and make you want to pull your hair out.) Then mark where that stopping point/hem edge is, unpin it and figure out how much fabric you used.

...Then buy a little extra. 

It's also helpful to do full-length practice pleats with the actual fabric, because it can behave a little differently (be stiffer, stand out more, etc) than your mockup.

Have fun! Box pleats are my favorite pleats, although they definitely require more thought than knife or cartridge!

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

welcome back, Wickedvox. No need to apologize for your absence. I have been a little absent as well. So much going on in my life at the moment.

But like you, I plan several new projects for myself now that I am 10 pounds from my ultimate goal weight after a 47 pound loss since June 2013. Nothing fits. I need a new corset as well. One project includes Pirate garb. I can't wait.

So much fabric, so little time. 

[Crimson]

the 3:1 rule is a good rule.  I used that for my kilt and it worked out great.  I do also agree that you should start with a full pleat in the center and work out either way from there.

[Wickedvox]

Great advice all, as expected. Congratulations Lady Kathleen! It's a good reason to make garb. And a better reason to keep of the weight--so you won't have to make it again!

The pleats in the picture look rather large-ish, almost four inches by my amateur eye. I also will post on TT FB to see what they have to say.

I'm happy to reconnect with you all...I've missed you *sniff*

[DonaCatalina]

Glad to see you again. I too make box pleats by feel; but 3:1 sounds about right.
Now for a little known detail. Start with the center front pleat so that it is folded *inward*. Then work backwards from that. You will like how it lays a lot better on the completed garment. I don't know why this works; but it does.

[Wickedvox]

Thanks Dona, good to be seen! Do you mean like an inverted box pleat??

[CalliopeCC]

Also it's taken me this long to recover my Renaissance desire after working for MiRF this year...I'll never do *that* again.

Ooh..sounds like there's a juicy story or two in there... but I have to ask: What was it about working for MIRF that put you off Ren Garb?

....betcha it was that awful, terrible, thoroughly naughty Mary Jane Fitzhugh the Seamstress, right?     

Whatever it was, I'm glad you're back too! So get on with the sewing and the pictures, checkie! We're all waiting!!   

[Wickedvox]

No juicy stories. It just wasn't the experience I expected it to be. A bit like overdosing on too much ice cream...puts you off ice cream for a while. I will say that they can learn to treat their adult "employees" with more respect than their youthful counterparts, and not let the "old timers" get away with doing things they tell the new staff to *not* do. *Harrumph* From now on I'll stick to paying to play, as that cost me *way* less money than being an "employee." That being said--I loved playing my character and the patrons response to her was hysterical.

Which reminds me, I never posted my "Soothy" outfit, which is gorgeous so I'll have to dig some pics out.

[Ser Niall]

Welcome back Wickedvox.  I've been absent as well, as my wife and I welcomed my first child into the world last August.  Along with child craziness, I had to take care of a few large and costly home improvement projects that have been on the back burner for way too long.  Things have seemed to calm down a bit, so I'm excited to get back into costuming this year.

[TiaLD77]

Welcome back Wicked! I too have been "off"....my rocker mainly